We spent the next two weeks in Sicily travelling the triangle formed by the city of Palermo on the north-central coast, the island of Marettimo off the west coast, and the former Greek city of Agrigento which is located on the south-central coast. Our first stop was Scopello, a tiny hamlet that exists exclusively to …
On the advice of a you-tuber, we took the train from Naples to Syracuse in Sicily. Staff at our Naples B’n’B’ were politely incredulous. “That’s romantic,” one said. Romantic is not quite what we were going for. Most travellers take the ferry to Sicily — or fly Ryan Air for 10 euros. But we wanted …

